SS2000 falling off to one side on the pad

Xanax1961

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Hey Guys, newbie here, I hear some allisons fall off the pad at top speed...….Then they hook, what is the remedy for this, never experienced this in a V bottom Hydrostream. If everything is balanced and not over trimmed what causes this? Motor too deep? Wrong set up? Appreciate all thoughts...…. TIA
 

dubmoney

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I am by no means an authority on the subject, but I have hooked it 3 times twice I was crossing wakes when other waves created conditions I was not expecting, and both times I was driving to fast for the size of the wakes. The third time I was driving an arching turn aroung the bottom of an island and the back came around, this is because I am now running almost a full inch above pad, for best top speed performance. Which, leads me to the list of causes:

  1. Over trimmed motor.
  2. Blow out can be caused by, exceeding the speed of the lower unit, i.e. trying to go faster than 85 mph with torque master lower, a handful of other issues contribute to blow out. Prop, skeg shape, size, blow out ring, length of case.
3. One controversial issue is the lip on the trailing edge of the pad. All boats that come out of the same mold are slightly different and handle different, depending on a number of factors, the largest in my opinion for Allison, is who and how they shaped the lip. This little feature can make a big difference in how your boat handles. .005 of an inch is all it takes to change the way the boat runs.

4. Engine height, I don't think running to low is usually a problem, when you start running high, is when you need to be careful. The general rule of thumb is to set the center of the prop shaft 1/4" below the pad (the pad height is not the same as the lip height. if you measure off the lip you must be able to accurately measure the lip and deduct it from the equation.) and learn the boat really good, so good you really don't need to ask what to do next, you just need to check to see if you are on the right track.

As you get more seat time, you will want to move weight, left and right forward and back to see how it effects the boat at different speeds. I have about 45 lbs on the port side mid ship. I usually make adjustments in the 2 to 4 lb increments on any given day, if I am trying for top speed numbers.



Good luck and feel free to continue with questions.
 
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Xanax1961

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I am by no means an authority on the subject, but I have hooked it 3 times twice I was crossing wakes when other waves created conditions I was not expecting, and both times I was driving to fast for the size of the wakes. The third time I was driving an arching turn aroung the bottom of an island and the back came around, this is because I am now running almost a full inch above pad, for best top speed performance. Which, leads me to the list of causes:

  1. Over trimmed motor.
  2. Blow out can be caused by, exceeding the speed of the lower unit, i.e. trying to go faster than 85 mph with torque master lower, a handful of other issues contribute to blow out. Prop, skeg shape, size, blow out ring, length of case.
3. One controversial issue is the lip on the trailing edge of the pad. All boats that come out of the same mold are slightly different and handle different, depending on a number of factors, the largest in my opinion for Allison, is who and how they shaped the lip. This little feature can make a big difference in how your boat handles. .005 of an inch is all it takes to change the way the boat runs.

4. Engine height, I don't think running to low is usually a problem, when you start running high, is when you need to be careful. The general rule of thumb is to set the center of the prop shaft 1/4" below the pad (the pad height is not the same as the lip height. if you measure off the lip you must be able to accurately measure the lip and deduct it from the equation.) and learn the boat really good, so good you really don't need to ask what to do next, you just need to check to see if you are on the right track.

As you get more seat time, you will want to move weight, left and right forward and back to see how it effects the boat at different speeds. I have about 45 lbs on the port side mid ship. I usually make adjustments in the 2 to 4 lb increments on any given day, if I am trying for top speed numbers.



Good luck and feel free to continue with questions.
Thanks a lot buddy, I'm going to measure pad bottom to prop shaft height tomorrow, BTW I'm running a sport master gear case 1.75 ratio
 

Waterdigger

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I ain't no expert on nothing... well eatin. Setup is important, different speeds = different trim angles. Don't get yo motor ahead of the boat. Flash the trim. Different props cause the SS to handle a little different. My 280/sport master/SS and my big arsh… oh and 30 pack run pretty straight. I believe a lot of folks stretch out their A Craft at almost max speed, then expect a lot more MPH with more positive trim. Rarely do I touch my trim between 85 and 100.
 
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Xanax1961

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LOL, I hear ya Waterdigger!! What props do you like the most with your SS? And what height R U running the gearcase? Mine just has a little 225PM
 

Xanax1961

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Alright guys, I've set the motor to 1/4 below pad, 225PM. Going to try my 28 and 30ET's out but ran into a problem on my Hydromotive 28 four blade I wanted to try, the merc racing hub in the Hydromotive prop has excessive side play (I know strange) hub and thrust washer all new parts...… What are you guys favorite props for the SS2000 side steer with side passenger on board??
 

SSTOM

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I love ET's and Yamaha Drags also the orignal Hoss triton1 on my SS. Mine was side steer when i firts got it 15yrs ago but i changed it to center steer drives better imo. I run the prop shaft even with the pad with a modded sportmaster lower. I have a 225pm 260 and a steel sleeve cut like a drag. the motor is a short shaft. The 225 has 16amp charging system recurved ecu and the fuel system is setup like a prostock motor (vst delete) pump in the boat. with the 225 with 1.87 gears and a 28 it will run 104/106. If you need any advice setup help pm me your number. Tom
 

gmorgan

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One other cause of blowout and turning right can be a simple prop change. If you have a 14.5-inch diameter prop running at its highest level and replace it with a 14-inch diameter without lowering the motor, you can almost guarantee a right turn.
 

Lotus 50

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I have a Steve Smith worked 28 Trophy that works shockingly well on my SS2000. With a 225 PM, it would carry my brother and I sitting up front and worked well solo. I bought the prop for $250 thinking it would be a back up and then spent too much getting it tuned. Too much is a relative thing. The prop works great, but I'll never get my money out of it. It's been the fastest prop so far on with my 200XS but I have hopes for my 28 T4X and 28 Triton.
 

Xanax1961

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I have a Steve Smith worked 28 Trophy that works shockingly well on my SS2000. With a 225 PM, it would carry my brother and I sitting up front and worked well solo. I bought the prop for $250 thinking it would be a back up and then spent too much getting it tuned. Too much is a relative thing. The prop works great, but I'll never get my money out of it. It's been the fastest prop so far on with my 200XS but I have hopes for my 28 T4X and 28 Triton.
What kind of rpm/speed are you seeing Lotus?
 

Lotus 50

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With my 200XS I hit 93 at around 6500 rpm. Not sure of the rpm. 1.75 gears. Cell phone GPS. That's actually faster than I ever ran it with my 225 PM. Usually my goal is to clear 90 and don't push it further.
 

Lotus 50

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I think the 225 PM had more then 91 in it. I just raised the engine enough to clear 90 and stopped trying. That said the 200XS doesn't give away much to the Promax
 
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