Note to GrandSport owners

K

Kevin from FL

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If you own a 1991-1997 Allison GrandSport please ensure that the transom bolt update has been performed on your boat. If you owned one of these boats and sold it please try and contact the person to whom you have sold it and advise them of this update.


How to tell if it has been done. The update consists of changing the upper mount bolts from
 

2fast4mom

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I just got my update kit from the factory. I will post pictures of the materials supplied, plus the step-by-step process of the job.

Lou
 

WBryant

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I got the new upper bolts, but not the aluminum plate. Is it something you had to build or is it available from Allison also.
 

2fast4mom

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Wilson the kit that they shipped to me had:

-The outside-of-transom black aluminum plate
-inside of transom thick bar for upper bolts
-9/16" upper bolts with welded washers on heads; and their nuts
-4 self-tapping screws to secure the bar to the inside of transom
-2 hex machine screws that go thru the washers into threaded holes in the bar

These were sent to me free of charge from Allison, if you didn't get everything call Bill at 865-983-5920.

I will take pics of it, sorry for the delay, I forgot to bring my camera to work today.
 

2Fast2Pass

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The 1/2 bolts on my 95 2003 failed.Top port side broke off at the nut.Put the updated ones in!
 
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2fast4mom

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Owing to a delay caused by a health problem, I just picked the boat up today after having some gelcoat work done. I haven't started the reinforcement job yet, and when I do I will take photos as indicated.

Lou
 

ziemer

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Wilson the kit that they shipped to me had:

-The outside-of-transom black aluminum plate
-inside of transom thick bar for upper bolts
-9/16" upper bolts with welded washers on heads; and their nuts
-4 self-tapping screws to secure the bar to the inside of transom
-2 hex machine screws that go thru the washers into threaded holes in the bar
Anyone installing this kit in their GS, don't even bother mess with these (4) screws.

I installed my kit a couple of weeks back and I would have taken pictures but I was too busy cussing and throwing tools around...banghead :cuss :cuss

It wasn't too bad, but I did try and screw the inside plate to the transom, and that was a complete waste of time.

If I were to do it again, I would have started the small hex screws through the welded sq. washer on the bolts into the plate, siliconed around the interior of the holes and inserted the bolts into the transom. Then once they were in place, tighened down the hex screws, so the bolts wouldn't spin when tightening down the nuts.

There is no need to pull the gas tank completely, although you need to pull it forward as far as possible. (For me this is a pain in the a$$ because I have to remove my trim pump, surge tank, and (2) fuel pumps.)

And for the record, my boat is a 95, that hasn't been babied (although taken good care of) and it's been drag raced, and I had no sign of cracks or indents in the transom. :wink
 

2fast4mom

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Thanks for this useful information, Jeff. I have been prevented from starting this job on mine, mostly because of time spent with cleaning out my parent's home :sad

I too will have to remove the fuel pump (the one that gave me all the trouble last summer when I was replacing the fuel tank) in order to slide the tank forwards.

I did try and screw the inside plate to the transom, and that was a complete waste of time.
Why was that? Did you drill pilot holes for these screws? If so, what happened--did they just go in and strip out the 'glass when you tried to tighten them? Or were they just so inaccessible that you had to do the job by "braille" and the constant dropping the tools in the bilge that goes along with that?

Mine is a 1995 too, and like yours, shows no signs of cracks or indents in the transom.
 

ziemer

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Why was that? Did you drill pilot holes for these screws? If so, what happened--did they just go in and strip out the 'glass when you tried to tighten them?
I drilled pilot holes, but the problem is (at least on mine) you're trying to screw into metal, once you get through the first small layer of glass. Not easy, especially with the limited sight and accessibility.

I brought this point up before, when the recall first came out. My transom may have sleeves at the bolt holes (I don't think it does) but it also has two metal plates, one at the inside and one at the outside sandwiched in between the layers of glass. I re-confirmed this when I tried to screw the inside plate down with the screws provided in the kit. When I replaced the upper bolts with the larger 9/16" bolts I remember drilling through two plates on the way through. Maybe there were different ways that they built the GS transom. :confused: :confused:
 

2fast4mom

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I was worried about enlarging the 1/2" holes to 9/16", worried about the drill going off-course. Bill at the factory assured me that there are metal sleeves that will self-guide the drill bit.

Thanks for the warning and the experience about the sheet metal screws!!
 

ziemer

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Bill at the factory assured me that there are metal sleeves that will self-guide the drill bit.
Let me know when you drill yours out. I would like to know what you feel as you drill through the transom. ;)
 

citabriatom

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My '94 did not have sleeves(at least not that the bit touched).The material was easy to drill into and then felt like 2 layers of metal.It was interesting that the metal shavings were easily picked up with a magnet.
 

Reddawg

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I know this is a few days old thread, but I just have to chip in my few cents.
I would not feel good about drilling through my Allison
 

citabriatom

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Actually,only the top bolts are drilled to 9/16.I know what you're saying about not wanting to drill the transom...I had talked about using some 1/2"
AN bolts instead.The reason I changed my mind and went with the factory upgrade kit was this:if the factory feels there is a problem and recomends an upgrade(and especially offers it for FREE),and you are aware of it and refuse to do it,then if something were to happen,you would be left with no recourse and could be left holding the proverbial bag(a good lawyer representing someone you thought was a friend who is now suing you would be on solid ground accusing you of NEGLIGENCE!).Now,don't fuss at me about the state of liability laws in this country as I am not a lawyer.You have to deal with things as they are,not how they should be.
 

Reddawg

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You sure do have a point.. But there is only liability under warranty. As for the Ally. upgrade, I can agree with you 100% of wanting to do it. Increasing the bolt size/strength is an excellent move to upgrade. Definitely I will do the top bolts. Im worried about the thickness of the aliminum sleeve after drilling. Allison have proven the strength and durability of their transom over the years. The majority of us have reason to confirm that.

I wonder, how would one repair an Allison transom without sending it back to the factory.

My transom has no issues thus far and I would like to keep it like that as long as I can. Now when it breaksbanghead , ill fix it:beer: .

J


Actually,only the top bolts are drilled to 9/16.I know what you're saying about not wanting to drill the transom...I had talked about using some 1/2"
AN bolts instead.The reason I changed my mind and went with the factory upgrade kit was this:if the factory feels there is a problem and recomends an upgrade(and especially offers it for FREE),and you are aware of it and refuse to do it,then if something were to happen,you would be left with no recourse and could be left holding the proverbial bag(a good lawyer representing someone you thought was a friend who is now suing you would be on solid ground accusing you of NEGLIGENCE!).Now,don't fuss at me about the state of liability laws in this country as I am not a lawyer.You have to deal with things as they are,not how they should be.
 
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