XB21 setup and props I got with the boat

Discussion in 'Setup' started by twsykes, Apr 3, 2017.

  1. Allyfishing

    Allyfishing Well-Known Member

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    twsykes, you need to calibrate your merc monitor or smartcraft monitor, whichever one you have. The calibration is done there for full tuck under to be "0". Take a pic of your gauge so we can see which one you have.
     
  2. twsykes

    twsykes Member

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    ah, so it can be done at the gauge? Here is what I have
     

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  3. scj

    scj Active Member

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    Get your manual out. It tells you exactly how to set it up.
     
  4. Allyfishing

    Allyfishing Well-Known Member

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    I'm not familiar with that gauge. I have a mer monitor now and I've had a smart craft that looks nothing like that. Hopefully you have a manual There will be a settings menu in the gauge that will be pretty straight forward on calibrating. Look for "trim" in the menu then go from there.
     
  5. Tim Powell

    Tim Powell Active Member

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    You have the SC1000 System Monitor.

    Here is the manual:

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...lrV0aC3giuTjKCEqA&sig2=ZfP1gy867xU02xcbDH8Gzw

    Calibration instructions start on PDF Page 15.

    I calibrate mine so 0.0 is fully trimmed down, 10.0 is fully trimmed up, tilt starts at 10.1 and ends at 25.0

    Yours may be different because I don't have the wedges installed anymore but Neutral trim on my boat is 6.6

    It sounds like your engine is mounted in the 2nd hole from the top, it really needs to be raised up one hole to the middle set of holes to get you above the pad.
     
  6. Allyfishing

    Allyfishing Well-Known Member

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    good job tim!!
     
  7. twsykes

    twsykes Member

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  8. hooken203

    hooken203 Active Member

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    You have gotten some solid advice from these guys. Let me add a few. This coming from a guy that's been trying to make a boat set up like yours with power poles run. Leave that foil right where it is. I know it looks like crap but it is helping your hole shot. When you get the boat to run over 90 ok then take it off. But you won't.
    Your measurements sound about right on the floor to the pad but make sure the pad is level if you didn't. Your next step is to make sure the engine is level use the flywheel or the cavitation plate or put a level on the prop shaft. You will hear there's only one way to do this check it and see they all work. When the pad is level and the engine is level note your trim numbers that is neutral trim. Now measure to the center of the prop shaft. Raise or lower the engine until you get the same measurement as your floor to pad. Note where your jack plate gauge is. That is level with the pad. You need to use these as your starting point. As for the spin it out thing yeah keep it in your mind but way in the back. I have made some bad moves in this boat but it has never given me the feeling of going around. Like yank the wheel at over 80 mph to miss a floater yeah it got ugly and washed the sides a little but it stayed straight. As far as chine walk you can learn to drive and deal with it. It's like riding a bicycle once you figure it out it's easy. What I have been told/learned is trim it until you get that light chine walk then raise the plate to calm it watching water pressure. Do this until you see no speed increase or you start to lose water pressure.
    As for moving the transducer off the skid planner ok pull it off put it in the boat somewhere and go run it.
    With my boat with a 250 poles and the standard 8.5 inch set back it didn't make a difference. Now with 10 inches of set back it has improved my water pressure.
    I can't help you much on the prop deal because I don't have 1.62 gears. But I can tell you the Hydromotive XOB props do run well on these boats problem is you can't get one new right now.
    I had a 28 XOB wish I had it back now.
     
  9. Garry Hagins

    Garry Hagins Active Member

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    TW,
    You are in North Carolina correct. I would call Lee Sanderson and take it up to him and let him do his magic. He took my boat (XB-21 ProSport) that was taking 8 to 18 seconds to get on plane and got it to come out of the hole in 3 to 4 seconds with a 28 Bravo 1 FS (they add 4 holes). He also installed some 2 degree wedges in it so it would tuck under more for a better hole shot. Robbie did some modifications to the lower unit, which made it drive and handle considerably better. It was money that was well spent. I also have a prop for tubing that is a 24 pitch fury 4 and this prop comes out of the hole super quick. I had 5 people in the boat and was running 80 easily. TALK TO LEE SANDERSON and have him set up your boat.
     
  10. Tim Sykes

    Tim Sykes Member

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    Hi guys, Check out this run. Need opinions. This prop is the 26 P RH Lab ET Lightning 48-8M0006666. First run In a while. Out of the hole is not very good to say the least. Would love some input

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/ucyw5nbzo3yspax/IMG_1579 2.mov?dl=0

    Garry, I just saw your post. i will call Lee. Thanks for the input
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2017
  11. Tim Powell

    Tim Powell Active Member

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    Hard to tell but it doesn't look to be carrying the bow very well?
     
  12. Tim Sykes

    Tim Sykes Member

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    That’s actually what I thought. Seems like the bow is not lifted much
     
  13. gmorgan

    gmorgan Active Member

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    Always a good idea to stay away from the right bank when running hard in an Ally. If she does turn, most times it will be to the right. Leave yourself a margin for error.
     
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  14. Tim Sykes

    Tim Sykes Member

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    Interesting. Thanks for the tip. I think the pic might be a little deceiving. I am running there between two islands but I will definitely remember the tip Thanks
     
  15. Allyfishing

    Allyfishing Well-Known Member

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    I see there's a twsykes as a member profile and a Tim Sykes in this post. Are you the same?

    All good info here.

    Hooken mentioned checking where the JP gauge needle is when you know where even with the pad is but if you are using a CMC JP and gauge you will discover the gauge is not reliable so make a mark on the JP where the two plates align so you know exactly where even with the pad is. Also, neutral trim on your smart craft gauge ONLY after you have set it to "0" at full tuck and "10" at full trim on the ram. then you will know true neutral trim.

    As for the props, yeah I agree that the Pro ET is not a very good choice but the TXP OT4 (I know there's guys who do not like these props) is not a bad prop at all. One thing about them is they like to be run high and if not may give you handling problems til you are at least even with the pad. Below the pad and pushing the throttle with neutral or above trim and it will be harder to settle it down than running slightly above pad.

    Oh, hooken also mentioned "its like riding a bicycle once you've got it it's easy" is correct which also made me think of an example someone once told me about driving an Allison and riding a bicycle...BALANCE. imagine your a paper boy with 2 huge paper bags and you deliver riding your bike. You wouldn't put both huge bags over one shoulder hanging off one side right? Same thing in your boat. When running solo TO LEARN TO DRIVE make sure you are perfectly balanced side to side. It will make life so much easier.

    And about that TXP prop....if you ever sell it give me a shout out first!!!!
     

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