225 Promax Running hot on 1 side

Honda92

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This is a on a all stock 225 Promax with the oil injection removed. Ok so I hit a log at 70mph, the sportmaster is ok with no damage along with the prop. I must of hit the log at the right angle and slid along it causing wood to get into my cooling system. The sportmaster lower was plugged up to where I needed a cut up coat hanger to get all the wood out. I replaced the waterpump impeller after taking the housing off for inspection. I also flushed out the powerhead, removed/cleaned the thermostats, blew through the line going to the adapter plate, cleaned all the junk out from behind the poppet valve. After doing this I got to the point where I got water flowing out of pee hole again and it would idle without climbing above 143 degrees on my temp gauge I could also hold a constant rpm of 2500 and the temp would not raise. However above 2500 rpm it would climb quick. So I took the stats back out for inspection along with the poppet valve and cleaned as needed. At this point I also took off the lower again and now hooked the hose directly to the copper water tube. I found with a infrared thermometer the passenger side cylinders run at 140-145 degrees. The driver side cylinders ran at 170-175 degrees after the stats opened up. So I swapped stats thinking that could possibly be the problem.. Exactly the same reading after swapping. So since this I have done the following:

-Took the stats back out and clarified that there was no wood stuck in them

-Removed the poppet valve and cleaned that again

-Took the heads off and didn't find much wood at all, couple tiny pieces and a couple small pebbles which all were in the driver side (side that is running hot) I blew out the ports with air and also blew out the heads with air since they were off.

At this point I put the heads back on with new gaskets and ran it on the hose again. Same thing, driver side cylinders were running 30 degrees hotter than the passenger side. So then I decided I should dig deeper into this problem:

-I pulled the powerhead off

-Took apart the adapter plate which had a few small pieces of wood in it and some pebbles which mostly were on the passenger side of the plate (Side that runs normal temp)

-I took out the stats and blew through the ports with the powerhead hanging from the hoist

-I took out the poppet valve and confirmed that there was nothing hiding behind there

-I blew out the hose that goes to the top of the powerhead

-I visually looked under the powerhead to where the water ports are for the heads and that was clear.

I put it together and ran it on the hose today without the lower unit on.. Still runs 30 degrees hotter on the driver side 170-175ish vs 140-145ish passenger side. After not finding much in the plate other than a wore out motor mount I was kind of anticipating still having the cooling issue. What am I missing? Any ideas would be appreciated!
 

hirk

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I found wood and a piece of impeller in the hole where you see the white hose going, this is with the exhaust divider cover removed, made mine hot on the gauge as it was near the sensor.
 

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Honda92

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I found wood and a piece of impeller in the hole where you see the white hose going, this is with the exhaust divider cover removed, made mine hot on the gauge as it was near the sensor.
That is the only thing I have not Checked out yet. Good idea! Can I blow air through all those holes?
 

hirk

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Air should work, I just used the white hose and blew with my mouth to see if there waa a blockage. Like you I checked the poppet, t stats, lines etc and found nothing, taking the exhaust cover off was the only thing I could think of I hadnt checked. You will have to either grind some of the pan off to get it off or lift the power head an inch, then you need a block and pan gasket set.
 

Honda92

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Air should work, I just used the white hose and blew with my mouth to see if there waa a blockage. Like you I checked the poppet, t stats, lines etc and found nothing, taking the exhaust cover off was the only thing I could think of I hadnt checked. You will have to either grind some of the pan off to get it off or lift the power head an inch, then you need a block and pan gasket set.
I have a Nass cowl on mine. Hoping I don't have to lift the powerhead again... This is what I have
 

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90 5.0

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Pull exhaust divider, I have never had to mess with my cowl or pull powerhead to get one off.

Takes some finagling but they come off without raising motor
 

Honda92

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Pull exhaust divider, I have never had to mess with my cowl or pull powerhead to get one off.

Takes some finagling but they come off without raising motor
Perfect that is tonight's project
 

flying07

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Get that boat going, gotta show those Hydrostream guy's what's up on Saturday!! (and yes, I'm boatless, but soon again. . haha)
 

hirk

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Pull exhaust divider, I have never had to mess with my cowl or pull powerhead to get one off.

Takes some finagling but they come off without raising motor
It may depend on which cowl you have, it wouldnt come off of my 260 style promax, never tried to remove it with an alien.
 

Honda92

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Alright I got it off without lifting the powerhead no issues. So I found half a acorn shell in the bottom of the cover lodged in the square hole. Other than that, nothing. I can blow through all the ports. I also took the poppet back out to clarify nothing was behind there and also blew through the hose going to the top of the block which I can see with the divider plate removed. I did notice it looks like it is running rich on the driver side.. Which is also the side that is running hotter. Is that normal?
 

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Honda92

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A richer mixture would cool the temperatures.
So that is just caused by the computer trying to keep those cylinders cooler by adding more fuel? Once I get the water blockage problem figured out it will return back to normal?
 

hirk

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Did you take the poppet apart? Crap can get under the washer. How do you know its richer on one side? Have you tried another heat sensor to rule that out?
 

Honda92

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Did you take the poppet apart? Crap can get under the washer. How do you know its richer on one side? Have you tried another heat sensor to rule that out?
Yes I took the poppet apart again, clean as can be. I have not tried another heat sensor. Are you talking about one that the computer would be reading or my gauge? I'm also using a infrared temp gun to keep a eye on the head temps. Wouldn't this picture indicate that it is running richer on side that is running hot? It's awfully black compared to the side that is running normal temp at idle
 

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Honda92

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Yes I took the poppet apart again, clean as can be. I have not tried another heat sensor. Are you talking about one that the computer would be reading or my gauge? I'm also using a infrared temp gun to keep a eye on the head temps. Wouldn't this picture indicate that it is running richer on side that is running hot? It's awfully black compared to the side that is running normal temp at idle
I should note too that it did this same thing before I pulled the heads, powerhead, adapter plate ect. I also ran it on the lake before I did all that and ABOVE 3000rpm the passenger side head would also climb temperature quickly. Running at idle or just on plane it would maintain a constant temperature. Since pulling the powerhead and everything else I have not had it on the lake, or the lower unit on. I have been running it with the garden hose connected directly to the copper water tube
 

hirk

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Yes I took the poppet apart again, clean as can be. I have not tried another heat sensor. Are you talking about one that the computer would be reading or my gauge? I'm also using a infrared temp gun to keep a eye on the head temps. Wouldn't this picture indicate that it is running richer on side that is running hot? It's awfully black compared to the side that is running normal temp at idle
The sensor on the left head, as far as I know it controls your gauge and warning horn. I dont know enough to say if one side is rich or not hopefully someone else will comment on that. If your heat gun matches the gauge then obviously scratch that possibility
 

Honda92

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The sensor on the left head, as far as I know it controls your gauge and warning horn. I dont know enough to say if one side is rich or not hopefully someone else will comment on that. If your heat gun matches the gauge then obviously scratch that possibility
Yes the heat gun matches the gauge for the side that is idling at normal temp. I'm wondering what else could be plugged up here? Is it a blockage or incoming water or a blockage of outgoing water... If I run the garden hose wide open at idle both sides run about 72 degrees, when I throttle it back to gain temperature the driver side will run 175ish and the passanger side will run right around 140 like it should
 

flying07

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make it a boat anchor and get a 280? haha. . . jk. . . . crappy part is we can't boat Saturday on the river. . . . next year. . .. get that thing fixed!!
 

Honda92

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make it a boat anchor and get a 280? haha. . . jk. . . . crappy part is we can't boat Saturday on the river. . . . next year. . .. get that thing fixed!!
No kidding looking like a nice weekend too! I'm at a loss, going to run wire through the water ports and then I'm out of ideas.
 
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