bassracr
Active Member
Ok, I Was changing some things around and decided I would re-lube my cables. the last time I did this was 2008 and they were still working nice and smooth but thought I would take care of it now and hopefully wont have to mess with it for another 5 yrs. or so. about a week has passed since I did it and took some pictures, so I will try remember the steps and walk some of you thru the process that may have been afraid to take it on, or unfamiliar with what's involved . first of all you need the luber..you should be able to go to your local hardware store and leave with all you need for about 15 bucks. I built mine about 6 years ago so I don't have a parts list but should be able to give you a very good idea what you need. there are other instructions available for these on this site and others that require welding . since I don't have a welder I came up with this one out of necessity . ok the first thing you will need is a T-fitting I guess you call it..the one I have has a big 3/4 on the side which I assume is the threaded hole sizes on each end. I had 2 reducers that screw in each end to take it down to 1/2 , on one side a air nipple will screw in, the other side a hose barb. the top will have a 3/4 in pipe plug to cap it off. the clear vinyl hose is 7/8 o.d. and 5/8 i.d . 3 heavy duty hose clamps to clamp on the cable end and hose barb and your set. the hose should be about 2 1/2 to 3 feet long to allow room for cable movement and also acts as a reservoir for the fluids you will be forcing thru the cables, heres what you should end up with.....
I would recommend putting a small tarp or plastic under the helm area and maybe a towel over the front seat to keep things as clean as you can. once under the dash you will be removing these four bolts to remove the rack from the pinion assembly.
my rack closest to the dash required me to loosen the steering column bolts through the dash to give me the needed clearance to remove the rack . once the rack is dropped down I moved the cable end out to the end to separate the cable from the rack. you can remove the two bolts on the end of the rack holding the retainer. remove the cotter pin from the end of the cable and the plastic retainer leaving two nuts to remove. put a screwdriver in the end of the cable to keep it from turning while you remove these two nuts that will separate the inner cable from the rack.
move to the other side of the rack . SEE PART 2
http://forum.allisonowners.com/showthread.php?t=14974
I would recommend putting a small tarp or plastic under the helm area and maybe a towel over the front seat to keep things as clean as you can. once under the dash you will be removing these four bolts to remove the rack from the pinion assembly.
my rack closest to the dash required me to loosen the steering column bolts through the dash to give me the needed clearance to remove the rack . once the rack is dropped down I moved the cable end out to the end to separate the cable from the rack. you can remove the two bolts on the end of the rack holding the retainer. remove the cotter pin from the end of the cable and the plastic retainer leaving two nuts to remove. put a screwdriver in the end of the cable to keep it from turning while you remove these two nuts that will separate the inner cable from the rack.
move to the other side of the rack . SEE PART 2
http://forum.allisonowners.com/showthread.php?t=14974
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