GotMyAlly
Well-Known Member
I used a floor jack under the pad. I put a short section of 2x12 on the jack to distribute the weight over a larger surface, and a square float cushion on top of that to cushion it.
There's no excuse for this crap!
- Thread starter GotMyAlly
- Start date
Allyfishing
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the advice Neal.
I used your measurement for blocks since it appeared by your factory measurements we were the same. 1" in the rear and 1 3/4" in the front. I launched the boat,beached it and proceeded to work on the trailer in the parking lot with all my materials and tools in the back of the truck. Removal of the vertical bunk hardware was easy. It does appear that the wood is starting to rot so a replacement of the vertical bunks will most likely take place this winter.
The flat guide bunks are going to need replacing as well. A few of the lag bolts holding them on the brackets were loose (actually backed out a few turns) and would not "grab" as I tightened them which indicated to me they were indeed lag bolts and not SS bolts with "T" nuts inside the 2 by's. That would have been the proper way to secure those bunks. The painted metal brackets holding those guide bunks are rusted real bad at each hole so much so that the rust is all bubbled up. This is a 2013 trailer
When I replace the vertical bunks I will allow for 2" in the front (like you stated Neal, 2 by 8 will be the lumber of choice). I could have used an extra 1/4" of height since my keel is still "resting" on the yellow roller but not by much. the remainder of the hull is off the guide bunks now anyway. The boat actually loaded easier this time too.
Thanks for bringing this to our attention.
I used your measurement for blocks since it appeared by your factory measurements we were the same. 1" in the rear and 1 3/4" in the front. I launched the boat,beached it and proceeded to work on the trailer in the parking lot with all my materials and tools in the back of the truck. Removal of the vertical bunk hardware was easy. It does appear that the wood is starting to rot so a replacement of the vertical bunks will most likely take place this winter.
The flat guide bunks are going to need replacing as well. A few of the lag bolts holding them on the brackets were loose (actually backed out a few turns) and would not "grab" as I tightened them which indicated to me they were indeed lag bolts and not SS bolts with "T" nuts inside the 2 by's. That would have been the proper way to secure those bunks. The painted metal brackets holding those guide bunks are rusted real bad at each hole so much so that the rust is all bubbled up. This is a 2013 trailer
When I replace the vertical bunks I will allow for 2" in the front (like you stated Neal, 2 by 8 will be the lumber of choice). I could have used an extra 1/4" of height since my keel is still "resting" on the yellow roller but not by much. the remainder of the hull is off the guide bunks now anyway. The boat actually loaded easier this time too.
Thanks for bringing this to our attention.
GotMyAlly
Well-Known Member
I had several bolts loose in my flat guide boards too, but mine all tightened up with a couple of turns. You're correct that there's no t-nuts in there, just lag bolts. I did have one spot where the lag bolt missed the mounting bracket. Not sure how that happened from the factory, but pretty worthless to run a lag bolt into the bunk only. I moved it to the empty hole in the mount mounting tab and there wasn't even a hole in the guide board at that location.
Allyfishing
Well-Known Member
I crawled under it when I got back home and there is a pretty good gap between the guide boards and the hull at the rear. Both black rollers are now no where near the hull. The yellow roller up front is still on the keel with enough pressure that I cannot turn it by hand, but it appears to have less of the roller on the hull than before. The hull is still resting on the guide bunks next to the roller.
I thought I may have put one of the precut blocks in wrong (I labeled them and marked "UP"after I cut them) because there's a bigger gap between the guide bunk and the hull at the rear on one side over the other. Not much but I can feel the difference with my fingers and it is visible. The position of the hull is not resting on the vertical bunks at the same place on each side. The vertical bunks rest on I guess would be called a strake but maybe because of the bulk of the carpet that the strake is resting on is larger than the strake itself. That got me to thinking what scj (Steve) said he did to his vertical bunks and that was to router the edges of the board that the hull is resting on and then install the carpet. That may give the opportunity for the strake to position itself equally on the surface better. That then would make the gap between the guide boards and the hull equal.
This is my experience.
I thought I may have put one of the precut blocks in wrong (I labeled them and marked "UP"after I cut them) because there's a bigger gap between the guide bunk and the hull at the rear on one side over the other. Not much but I can feel the difference with my fingers and it is visible. The position of the hull is not resting on the vertical bunks at the same place on each side. The vertical bunks rest on I guess would be called a strake but maybe because of the bulk of the carpet that the strake is resting on is larger than the strake itself. That got me to thinking what scj (Steve) said he did to his vertical bunks and that was to router the edges of the board that the hull is resting on and then install the carpet. That may give the opportunity for the strake to position itself equally on the surface better. That then would make the gap between the guide boards and the hull equal.
This is my experience.
props4u2
Active Member
Allyfish, I have personally never seen any fasteners other than lag bolts holding flat bunks to the brackets on a bass boat trailer. I have seen carriage bolts on older big boat trailers.
Something else to consider when a few of you were talking about only three bolts holding the vertical bunks is that there is a compression factor also, as with any bolt on situation.
That is odd that your bunks have rot already, I have several Allison's in my area in the mid 90's on up that have never had the bunks replaced and are still solid.
Those older bunks probably wouldn't get past the EPA now days though.
The vertical bunks are under the strakes where the main stringers run inside the boat. There is no problem with the full weight of the boat resting on just the two bunks.
There was also mention of having to pick up the bow when loading at times because the bunks were too low, (Gotmyally) that is not the case at all. That issue comes from the trailer being backed into the water too deep. The front roller and guide bunks raise the bow over the bow stop when the trailer is in the correct depth.
Just a few thoughts.
Something else to consider when a few of you were talking about only three bolts holding the vertical bunks is that there is a compression factor also, as with any bolt on situation.
That is odd that your bunks have rot already, I have several Allison's in my area in the mid 90's on up that have never had the bunks replaced and are still solid.
Those older bunks probably wouldn't get past the EPA now days though.
The vertical bunks are under the strakes where the main stringers run inside the boat. There is no problem with the full weight of the boat resting on just the two bunks.
There was also mention of having to pick up the bow when loading at times because the bunks were too low, (Gotmyally) that is not the case at all. That issue comes from the trailer being backed into the water too deep. The front roller and guide bunks raise the bow over the bow stop when the trailer is in the correct depth.
Just a few thoughts.
Last edited:
Allyfishing
Well-Known Member
Good info and observations there Mr. Props!!
I didn't/don't like the compression factor of that much weight loaded on a 2 by with what I have now in board sticking up above the top of the brackets. Especially after drilling the new holes and seeing the wood coming off the drill bit looking like a soaked rotten piece of wood. The one end of the flat guide board at the rear was easily bendable with some force.
My 1991 Astro 18FDX had SS fasteners and "T" nuts in the original bunk boards. I replaced all the boards on that trailer in 2006 when I just happened to notice the one board lay different than the others one time while I was parking it in the lot. Back then I never payed much attention to details like I do now. I grabbed the one board and put pressure on it in the middle and it almost fell off. I bought lumber, carpet, SS fasteners and "T" nuts and launched the boat one day so my friend could fish til I went back home with the trailer and replaced the boards. I could pull them all off by hand!!! It took longer to get the fasteners off the brackets than it did removing the bunks.
I'm glad to hear the area of the hull will withstand the full weight on the boards.
That may be Neals problem loading who knows. It does depend on the grade of the ramp too. Most situations I leave just a bit under half the fender showing when it's in the water. I've never had to raise the bow but I never power load either. I did notice how much easier the boat loaded the first time I loaded it back on the trailer after shimming the boards. Much nicer.
thanks for your advice and information...always good to hear from you!!!
I didn't/don't like the compression factor of that much weight loaded on a 2 by with what I have now in board sticking up above the top of the brackets. Especially after drilling the new holes and seeing the wood coming off the drill bit looking like a soaked rotten piece of wood. The one end of the flat guide board at the rear was easily bendable with some force.
My 1991 Astro 18FDX had SS fasteners and "T" nuts in the original bunk boards. I replaced all the boards on that trailer in 2006 when I just happened to notice the one board lay different than the others one time while I was parking it in the lot. Back then I never payed much attention to details like I do now. I grabbed the one board and put pressure on it in the middle and it almost fell off. I bought lumber, carpet, SS fasteners and "T" nuts and launched the boat one day so my friend could fish til I went back home with the trailer and replaced the boards. I could pull them all off by hand!!! It took longer to get the fasteners off the brackets than it did removing the bunks.
I'm glad to hear the area of the hull will withstand the full weight on the boards.
That may be Neals problem loading who knows. It does depend on the grade of the ramp too. Most situations I leave just a bit under half the fender showing when it's in the water. I've never had to raise the bow but I never power load either. I did notice how much easier the boat loaded the first time I loaded it back on the trailer after shimming the boards. Much nicer.
thanks for your advice and information...always good to hear from you!!!
GotMyAlly
Well-Known Member
I don't think dunking the trailer too deep was the reason my boat hit the bow stop too low. Even with the trailer conservatively in the water so that it had to be winched the last 18" or so, it would come in nose-low, hit the bow roller right at the rub rail, and ride it up. Not anymore!
I have the opposite affect. My bow rides 3 to 4 inches above my bow roller stop. I picked the back of the vertical board up an inch and the eye is still an inch above the roller. I need to pick up the front to get it off the roller and horizontal boards ,this will make it worse. ???????
GotMyAlly
Well-Known Member
Is your front riding on the horizontal boards now? Instead of the vertical boards?
Yes. A little.
Right now the boat is off the trailer im changing bolts on horizontal boards and broken rollers. The front and rear of the vertical boards were sitting flat on the trailer. Guess I'm going to have to pick both ends up to get it off the rollers and horizontal then maybe re fab the bow stop roller to fit as needed
CarolinaBurt
Active Member
This is one of my favorite threads - You guys have brought up one of the mysteries of boat ownership that I've had for nearly 50 years.
I'm going to move this to a new thread and would love to have your inputs.
Trailer Design - Matching Trailer Support To The Boat -
Thanks, Gordon
I'm going to move this to a new thread and would love to have your inputs.
Trailer Design - Matching Trailer Support To The Boat -
Thanks, Gordon
Tim Powell
Active Member
Well, I finally got around to raising my vertical boards. They were mounted at 1-5/8" in the front and 1" in the rear. My boat was resting on the front roller but not on the others. I ended up raising the vertical boards another 1/2" so now my front boards are mounted at 2-1/8" and rear is at 1-1/2".
Now my boat clears the front roller by 1/4", it sits on the trailer much better, it loads and unloads much better too.
While raising the boards, I noticed that someone had lowered the boards at some point, the rear had 2 sets of holes and the front was a good sized slot.
Now my boat clears the front roller by 1/4", it sits on the trailer much better, it loads and unloads much better too.
While raising the boards, I noticed that someone had lowered the boards at some point, the rear had 2 sets of holes and the front was a good sized slot.