Time to restore the A-boat I killed!

Speedman

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I have beat the snot out of my 94 xb-2002 since the day I brought it home in 95. I wipe it down and vaccum the fish slime out of it every now and then but I have never waxed it or buffed anything. The trailer is rusted bad, the wood pads on the back of the wheel wells have rusted off. A bunk caved in on me last fall etc etc. So now facing the fact that 60k is not in my budget, I have decided to put the time in and see if I can bring her back to life. I started with a new/used bucket cover. mine was wasted big time from 1bad67- thanks. I rebuilt the 225 with lots of goodies from angle cut pistons to shaved heads, 100% new bearings, caps, reeds, coils, just about everything so the engine will be done once I get the voltage spike figured out? Got an hour meter to install. going to reweld the whole trailer and maybe some custom paint. If the snow ever goes away, I'll get the "Before" pictures up and watch it rise from the ashes! Will need help from you guys on what to do and as always, will heed the advice of the true Ally owners....I am not worthy of! But I can tell you this, even with the rusty trailer, torn seats, ripped carpet trim falling off, no shine left in it boat, it still wastes every thing in site!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Speedman

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So I bought a Lowrance GPS unit, Hour meter, going to start the trailer restoration of the crappy Boatmate one I have next weekend. Surprisingly, my hull is fairly shiney with a few chips at the very back of the pad. Is there any special type of rubbing compound to try? I an not much of a wet sander type of guy, I think compounding will do nicely to start Not sure if I am going to replace the seats or have some custom upholstry done locally, we'll see. Oh yeh, 107 lbs of TM coming too! got a good bonus and tax refund this year and the wife has given me the go ahead!
 

baitcaster

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The only advice I can give you on the compound is to use a high speed buffer. I have found that they are all pretty much the same; I can't remember one brand standing out above any other. But using a good high speed buffer can save you a lot of time and effort.
 

baitcaster

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A mild compound to start. Most mild compounds will indicate that they are clear coat safe. If it doesn't clean it up you may need to go to a medium grit. Put several coats of a good quality wax on it after you buff out the discoloring. They also have some fairly good marine gel coat restorers - you can pick some up at Wal-Mart. You may want to use the high speed buffer on the first wax coat, just to clean up any missed spots, but would not recommend it on subsequent coats. I am sure you have used a high speed buffer before and this next statement is a mute issue, but be careful not to put to much pressure on one spot and don't hold it in one area - keep it moving to avoid cutting through the gel coat in one spot. Once you get started you will see what you need to do. I am like you and would not wet sand it. If you have to get to that point, you will need to have it re-clear coated. If it needs re-coating and you are not familiar with doing the work, I would bring it to a pro to do. I had the top shell on my old boat re-done/clear coated once, due to age and I was refurbishing it and wanted to look like it was new and have added protection. But if your gel coat isn't too damaged the buffing and waxing should do the trick. After you are through - if the sun turns it rather quickly, you may have to get it re-clear coated, ie: your gel coat has been worn by the sun and is not thick enough to protect the paint - keep it glossy.

Hope some of this helps - good luck, you have your work cut out for you. It will be worth it though!
 
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LAAllison

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Sounds like you got a lot of work in front of you. Don't be afraid to color sand if you need to--there's no clear to sand off an Ally, color is way thick. It's not like one of the metal flake jobs where you can sand through the clear. However you probably don't need to color sand .In fact if your rig isn't scratched you should be able to use something like Meguiars 44 Color restorer and wax and make it look good again. If you got scratches to work on use a liquid medium compound(I use 3M) and be a bit careful on the edges of your Ally so you don't get through the color.It's not like zip and you've messed up,there's lots a color there just be a little carefull. A good buffer is worth every penny you pay. I just started restoring a Checkmate that has been sitting unused,outside for 5 years. It's red which is a tough color but it's coming back nicely with Meguiars and Mothers wax.
Good luck. Maybe you'll be like me and find that you enjoy working on these things.


Art


Roll Tide
 

Speedman

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I do like working on it, just got no time with 2 kids and a 60 hour a week job! no sctratches just faded. What type of buffer should I get? someone said a high speed one, but what is High speed? 5k rpm 8k rpm? not sure on that one. anyways..I stopped by the marina and picked up some new voltage regulators and a complete set of new bunks for the boat, just waiting on the weather...may start tomorrow or just go fishin if the weather aint right!
 

GFinch

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Get a real buffer/polisher. Variable speed Buffers something that looks like this.


Something that can have a very low speed but lots of torque. Look to spend around $150-$200. Google, buffer polisher
 
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LAAllison

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That's it. Mine is a DeWalt that I bought from a tool supply bstore that deals with contractors. I'll look at the RPM rating and let you know.
And thanks Gary


Art



Roll Tide
 

Speedman

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got a 2500 rpm one from Autozone. remember once I get it done once, I'll probably not touch it for another 10 years! took some pictures today, get em up tomorrow
 

Darth VMAX

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Are you really putting a 107 lb thrust troller on it? I am curious as to why? Seems like a LOT of TM for a little XB2002. Hope the restore goes well for you
 
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