WTB 26 trophy plus

aj06bolt12r

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Anyone have a 26p trophy plus they want to part with? Hoping it might be easier for me to learn to drive with than my 28p hoss cut chopper
 

SlowHayden

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I have a 26p Quicksilver chopper, ran it on my Varmint but my GS is a fat shaft so it’s useless to me now.
35E6E0A5-810F-42F2-ABC3-B3DEA88B000A.jpegA126AC15-CBB9-4FFA-8848-E45CF915DE62.jpeg
 

Lotus 50

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A smaller diameter 4 blade should be easier to learn with. I sold my 26 Trophy Plus earlier this year. Of my current props, a 24 Drag 4 takes the least skill to drive
 

aj06bolt12r

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A smaller diameter 4 blade should be easier to learn with. I sold my 26 Trophy Plus earlier this year. Of my current props, a 24 Drag 4 takes the least skill to drive
Thank you sir that is what I have been hearing. I only have an hour or two of seat time in this XB or any performance pad v for that matter. But I can't seem to stay on pad for more than a few seconds before I loose it. Trying to maintain 70mph and master that before going any faster. Seems easier to drive while accelerating then it is maintaining steady speed.
 

aj06bolt12r

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I have considered turning my seat mount sideways to drive from closer to the center. Not sure if I would like having to reach for the pedal or trim switch.
 

SLOmofo

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The way I learned was I started at about 55 and drove around the lake going thru waves and wakes playing with the trim angle, getting used to the boat. Then bumped it up to 60 and did it again. 65 again 70 again. When I got into chine walk I would back off slightly(regain control) and try again. The key is to watch the horizon not the bow of the boat. As soon as you see/sense the bow roll over it's already to late to react. Basically you are using your sight and your inner ear(balance) just like when you learned to ride a bike. Starts to lean, bump the steering wheel in the other direction. After you get used to correcting at what ever speed it started to chine walk.....then you increase another 5 MPH.

Wax on, wax off Grasshopper.

NO slack/looseness in the steering and engine mounting is key also.
 

SLOmofo

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My gas pedal is not on the normal mounting place. Feet are to big and my shoe hung up under the dash. Mounted it to the floor near the center. Trim is turn signal type. Drilled and tapped holes in the aluminum plate that the seat slid is mounted to. Now I can sit as low as possible and use my weight to balance the boat. Also glued a RV level just under the windshield. This is an old pic, many changes since then. 15230
 

aj06bolt12r

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I like that... my feet are too big for the stock location too. Had to take my shoes off and drive barefoot to keep my foot from hitting panda. I'm tempted to convert to center steer. Seems like it would solve a lot of problems. I just picked up a little level like that today. I'm going to copy your idea. I think I saw it in another of your posts.

The way I am trying to drive it sounds exactly like what you are describing. I can drive at 55-60 no problem, through wakes from other boats and all. Its not really trying to get on pad there much yet. Over 60 I'm really paying attention but can run through the 60's okay sometimes just slowly gaining speed and keeping some left pressure on the wheel. Once I get up to about 70 I always loose it like clockwork. I just cant detect the walk starting in time to catch it before it starts amplifying and then its too late. I'm sitting there running somewhere in the 60's waiting for the boat to start falling to starboard side like everyone says it will but it seems like I never notice it moving until its already walking.

I have caught it in time about twice but I don't know how, just got lucky I guess. But once I had it balanced and it seemed like my little wheel twitches were having the desired effect I was able to keep it there for a while. But then I would hit some small ripples from another boat or my own last pass or I would over correct a little too much and then she's off... Washing rub rails again. I am getting a lot better at recovering from the chine walk though. I can at least detect it starting and get the boat back in the water before it gets violent so I only have to slow down about 10 mph or so and start again.

I do know my weight balance was off though. Was leaning some to my side at rest. Ill have more ballast on the port side next time.
 

SLOmofo

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I glued the level with Weather Trim Adhesive otherwise known as elephant snot when all there was was yellow. Now we have black too. Of course the boat has to be level side to side on the trailer first. Balance is every thing when your learning. I carry nothing in the boat that isn't necessary as acceleration is what I want.
 

SLOmofo

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What I did to mount the accelerator pedal to the floor was... Cut a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum, drill and tap holes to correspond with the pedal. I slit and lift the carpet so I could epoxy the plate to the floor. Another piece of aluminum drilled and tapped is glued to the cross member in front of the pedal. It has a piece of all thread and a lock nut and acts as a WOT stop.
 

Jessie

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Take an experienced driver with you. It will help the learning curve. Also put some water in the livewell, it will make driving easier.
 

aj06bolt12r

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What I did to mount the accelerator pedal to the floor was... Cut a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum, drill and tap holes to correspond with the pedal. I slit and lift the carpet so I could epoxy the plate to the floor. Another piece of aluminum drilled and tapped is glued to the cross member in front of the pedal. It has a piece of all thread and a lock nut and acts as a WOT stop.
Nice, so you didn't have to drill any new holes in the boat to make that happen?
 
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