XB2003 top speeds

[froggy]

Deadeye,

The pad lip on the 94, 95 & 96 model 2003's was .060". the pad lip on subsequent models was .090". The more lip the more you'll have your problem.

ASPB,

I totally agree with you. It is absurd to have to do all the sanding and crap necessary to make certain Ally's run; however, it is satisfying once you are finished. Git R Dun.

froggy

 

[ALLISONMAN]

the lip is there for the lesser hp motors to efficiently lift the boat!!!! The 2003 were designed for 150hp - 225hp and the lip is perfect for those motors but now if yu throw some hp to it the lip is too much and thats the reason for the modifications!! the 2002's do the same thing around the 110mph mark. the reasons for this is the lip trying to pick the gearcase out of the water and therefore causing a blowout or prop loosing its bite!! ususally the faster ya go the less engine height you need!! for instance my 225 liked about 1/4" to 1/2" above and now my 280 doesnt like anything above the pad!! differenst setup for different hp motors and loads.

 

[deadeye99]

Thanks Froggy. In another thread somebody said the larger lip started in 96. I have also read about only taking out the middle of the lip and leaving the ends. Can anybody expand on this? Thanks. Bob

 

[Yellowallison]

But seems to me if your boat is designed to run those speeds,the pad work should be done .A bud of mine took his ally back to the plant to have the hull blue printed,IMO that should already be done on a boat like that.

IMO.. Yu boyzz are going down the wrong thought pattern on the 2003 boat....... Darris designed the XB2003 with the lip so that it would run it's best with a 150-225HP motor carry a tournament load..and be fuel efficient.

He didn't design the boat for guys like AMAN and Myself and some of you others who are puttin 280-300HP motrs on them and using them to go screaming down the river at 100+mph.. he figured if you wanted to run that fast you would buy one of his other boats like SS,XR2001.

So.. thatz why you have't to do modification to the 2003 boat to make run those speeds..

Also... a 2003 boat with a fishing load runs its best with the pad bone stock... If yu modify the pad on a 2003 and put a load in in it.. it become a SLED! I've tried telling that to guys before and they didn't listening their boat became a SLED... or if you just let someone who doesn't know JackCHIT about Allison's modify a Allison pad... it becomes SLED... seen that done before too.

I've found no (2) boats are just alike... it seems all boats like thier own lil niche to make'm run thier best... You can use another boat setup as a starting point.. but you got to test and tune with each boat to find its sweet spot..

Thaz Yeallr expereince and 2 cents... GET R- DUN!

 

[msethsmile]

2002 console

In a way earlier post someone mentiond the small 2002 console vs the 2003. I always thought the 2002 was faster with the wide console (which mine had) due to less turbulence in the cockpit. Is this true?

 

[wj225]

YellowAllison, Jerry, Randy or Allisonman

I've been interested in this topic because of the talk about modifying the pad on an XB2003 to increase handling and speed. I have an XB03 with a mod. 225 ProMax. To date, I have been able to obtain 95.1 mph on gps. At that speed, the boat was very scary to drive as the back of the boat was lifting forcing the bow down (very close to a bat turn). I do fish from the boat and carry a moderate fishing load (speed of 95 was obtained with this load) so I don't want to kill the load carrying ability of the boat. My question: Have I reached the speed limit of my boat without losing the ability to carry a load? I have the standard 14 1/2" offset and Lee Sanderson modified Sportmaster with the stock pad on a 1999 XB-03.


Thanks,
Bill

 

[catfish123]

Bill, I don't know if this means anything to you but here is my experience. 1999 XB2003 with 2004 225X. Lee Sanderson did my gearcase, probably same as yours. When going for topend with a 30 ET I can get 94 mph lightly loaded although trolling motor etc is still on. I have experienced the nose dropping like you have and attribute it to any of the following. Running out of hp to keep the thing going. Motor maybe a bit too high and trimmed a bit too high so it loses it's ability to carry the bow. I think the steeply pitched prop tries to "walk to the surface" and in doing so, contributes to the inability to continue to carry the bow. Some of this information has been provided to me by others but my experience in it has verified at least to me that they were correct. You state your motor has modifications so I don't know about the lack of hp limiting you like it does me. If I run the motor just slightly lower, I can still get 93 and change without the bow dropping. On my rig, I don't believe there is much more there to get, at least safely.

Bob

 

[KY_XB2003]

I didnt read all of the posts, so this may have already been addressed. I have an '03 with a stock 225 promax. I have tried several props that ran good on other Ally's, but mine does the best with a 27 Trophy. Best speed I have ever seen on the gps is 90.2, but normally with just me, it stays around 88, and 85-86 with two people and tournament gear. Question is, what would be the cheapest and easiest things to do to get to the mid 90's alone and 90 with two and a touney load?

 

[wj225]

Mods. to motor

Bob,
I have done the following to my motor: Removed inner exhaust liner, relieved exhaust, G-force tuner, JSRE 34 cc heads, SVS, removed oil injection, Brucato PCU with 7600 limiter, flowed injectors and 16 amp flywheel. I don't know what that equates to in horsepower; I just want to know if that's all I can expect without losing the ability to carry some weight. I would love to try another gearcase to see if it helped.

Bill

 

[Yellowallison]

hEERZ yaLL a PICUTURE of a A fine TUNED pad!!!!!!!

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

and PINKIE-- DOnt BE scared!!!! ....... IT jus ole YEALLAR ..

The best procezzs I found fo workin a pad is not readin it off the internet but going to the boat ramp/river withz some 600-1000 wet-grit sandpaper and spending some time on your back-looking up...... first work on sharpen up your outside chimes and then start workin ole so slightly on the lip of yur pad........ back it in the water and make a pass... see what she does.... come back and sand it lil more wherever the boat is asking for it.. repeat this process in/out of the water till the boat is makin perfect passes.. Thatz how I do it.. jus try this and watch how much yur speed and handling will increase..

myself I also had a good Professor ....... Mr Glen Reynolds

That jus Yeallrs advice on how to work the pad...

 

[fishnfireman]

Dang yeller if I saw that boat coming at me in a tournament I would have thought it was a Bullet or something...


I am afraid to get the nose that high with a trolling motor and fishing gear.

Looks good, just never knew it took that much trim to get those big numbers.

All these years I thought flater was better..But we ALL know what happens when I start thinkin :roll:

 

[RB in NM]

Yep, gotta have em' high ta' fly

[/img]

 

[fishnfireman]

HMMMMM
Wonder where that photo was taken :!:

 

[RB in NM]

Down at the Butte........A good lake fer keepin' a feller sharp on how to look out for Rocks, and tops of peaks right under tha' surface !!!!!

The normal water line is above waht's shown at the top of the picture,,,, YOU know all about the changing water levels Huh?

Later bud! Russ

 

[hack02]

Great pic.

 

[froggy]

FNF,

Yellar is right. That's the way a pad is supposed to be worked. Right at the ramp, trial and error. All the decimal point stuff is used as a point of start.

Incidentally, Yellar is most likely running close to zero degrees of trim (ie. his lower unit is running parallel with the surface).

froggy

 

[catfish123]

Parallel with the surface of what? I always thought the trim was in relationship to the boat, not the water.

 

[GPI Racing]

Cat,

The engine at a slight 5 degree or so positive angle from the bottom is about parallel to the water. This due to the boat running attitude at 5-7 degrees. Granted the picture of the 2003 a couple posts back is more than that, he'll be flatter the faster he goes. But the picture shows the engine running pretty much level to the water.(if you can make it out with the alien cowl) If I could figure this posting stuff out I could post you a sideways shot of my old XR2002 running at 125+. It is very flat, maybe 2-3 degrees to the water.

My point, while you need to get the boat dry and have to trim out to do this, the faster you go the less angle of attack you will have to run. With your boat and the 225X try this next time out. Trim it out and get it loose, then try laying the boat down (at top speed) on an imaginary balloon but don't break the balloon. The senario is what I use to explain how to pop the tail on an Allison or STV to gain that last little bit. Your basically trying to loosen the tail up, reduce drag there, and lessen your frontal area for less wind drag. It's worth a couple mph and the boat will handle sweet over snotty water once you get the feel for it.

Randy

 

[John Richied]

I’m going to summarize what Randy is sayin about Yeller’s boat running bow high and WAY off and down to the starboard side (my words)… Yeah it’s a nice picture for sure, but an XB-2002 with a little 225 would SPANK it!

Lookin fast and being fast aren’t always the same thing… But if Yeller would have balanced that XB-03 side to side and laid that baby down he might have picked up a few miles per hour for sure. Dats the fact Jack...

 

[chad202]

Randy I don't know if this helps but in both pics, I'm running wot. In the first pic, I ran a little faster.