I did it.......

Allyfishing

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I went through testing the skid planer as well. I installed it according to the spec sheet that was provided and went testing. It seems that water that was probably exiting from the pad was catching the planer at high speeds and was very difficult to drive/handle the boat. ( SS 2000 ). I contacted Darris and got a shorter one that solved the problem.

So I think cutting was the right move, BUT IMO it all depends on HP,weight ,set up that makes this planer installation unique on all rigs .

Now if have another question for you guys. If you change ( increase) your set back will it require adjusting the skid planer?

Bruss

Based on all the facts and real experiences on this post I would venture to say that it would not need any adjusting. It has been proven by you guys that shortening it provides better handling. the only negative affect mentioned here by shortening it may cause a bit of a slower holeshot. I have seen the blast off of an SS2000 and they really fly. Nice boats!!
 

Allyfishing

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Todd, you answered that before I got done doing what I was doing and then sitting back down to type. LOL!!!

Todd, do you think that little tail wiggle was the water hitting the plate on mine that day?? And if so, if it were shortened a bit do you think the safety and performance factor would increase?
 

whipper

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If the boat would have been designed for the average hp most people put on it, then very few people would have had to modify it. It's just unreal to me that YEARS after these boats were first produced, the bugs on things like this are still having to be figured out and adjusted by the end user.

I understand what your saying but i also dont think thats whats going on hear in my opinion. You can look it a few different ways. If Darris designed the boats with the extensions built into the hulls out of the hulls material that would add significant costs over the original design. With all the motors and different weights of motors to choose from it makes better sense to leave this little tid bit of a modification to the end user. Its just reducing the squat effect from take off when the prop digs a hole. The plate stops the arse end from sinking as deep. This also can be done by adding flotation and just sealing of the bottom of the setback as everyone has done in the past on other models. Its no different than the foil. Merc could have made the lower unit with a wider foil but they didn't. Most but not all people like having the foil on. Theres performance advantages to that also but merc never designed them with that feature.

I like what Randy says about haveing a flatter planner with smaller tunnel. As well as the shortening of it. The trade off would be a bit less hole shot as the stern has a further distance to squat on take offs.

I would probably do this also but ill bet if you add flotation the effects of having a shorter and shallower planner would be offset buy the flotation?

The planner seem to be made bigger so you can trim it thats a lot easier than adding material. Theres cost savings and performance advantages to having the Hulls design with the higher transom area raised above the bottom that I see. Weight in the stern is one right off the bat. Having the flexibility to modify an add on to suit your taste has advantages also. Now if Darris would make a pillow shaped heavy duty air filled flotation that fits perfectly in the setback that would make me happy. Ive hit every shop in town looking for a inflatable pillow that fills that area better than balls do. Because that works big time also.

If someone wanted to get creative they would build a planner that is hydraulic or manually adjustable from the helm. You could have it down for take off then push a button or pull a leaver and raise it once on plain out of the way.:beer:
 
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catfish123

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Are there bolt-ons like these that are put on any other boats to improve on or to modify the original hull design???????????????? Just wondering out loud.
 

whipper

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Are there bolt-ons like these that are put on any other boats to improve on or to modify the original hull design???????????????? Just wondering out loud.

The only ones I can think would be trim tabs. Lots of boats make them an option but you really do need them on some hulls. I think they would {basicly achive the same results in this planner aplication} Its really the same princapble. Tabs also help with bad wieght ditrabution were the hull may porpoise.Thats what made me think of making it adjustable. Years ago on my Autoship cad boat design program I helped a local boat builder design a ride plate and air wing foils for his race boat. Adding the ride plate helped his hole shot. It was vee shaped matching the deadrise with two small strake design that just extended past the stern only right flush with the bottom. Then i added adjustable wings that were controled with cables from the cockpit to help the up force in his case of the bow over 100mph. I see lots of those river race guys do this now. Those are the ones that come to mind. Trim tabs being the most common. Foils are also very poular.
 

bigtis

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If someone wanted to get creative they would build a planner that is hydraulic or manually adjustable from the helm. You could have it down for take off then push a button or pull a leaver and raise it once on plain out of the way.:beer:
david berry had tyner's old white and red ally drag, and he had an air actuated "spelling" ram on the foil that was tied into a trim computer.
 

whipper

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david berry had tyner's old white and red ally drag, and he had an air actuated "spelling" ram on the foil that was tied into a trim computer.
Now thats creative.:beer: That would be cool hooked up to speed with the Planner. After about 35-40mph it lifts up out of the way for higher speeds as to not interfier with the water to the gearcase and prop at elevated propshaft hights?
 

Darth VMAX

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Flame me if you want, but I still don't understand a boat design at the price these things sell for that needs what appears to be an after-market or at least an after thought of a bolt on, just to make it operable. Seems some engineering features that should have been incorporated weren't.
I thought I read where there was contemplation of incorporating the skid planner into the mold but was thought it too vulnerble to damage therefore designed the way it was for easy replacement if damaged.
 

GotMyAlly

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My next step is going to be to cram some inflatables over the top of the skid planer. There's enough space there to add a noticeable amount of floatation.
 

Darth VMAX

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Do the XB21s need it? The back end of those things look like pontoon logs compared to the XB02/03's
 

GotMyAlly

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Doesn't really need it, but anything to float the back end higher while fishing shallow water helps.

Every inch counts.......
 

GotMyAlly

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Doesn't really need it, but anything to float the back end higher while fishing shallow water helps.

Every inch counts.......
 

whipper

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I was looking online and you can get inflatable pillows? If you can messure the they have the right size they look lite they could be a perfict fit filling the entire cavaty with air. That would be a good product for someone to manufacture for out boards. Setback pillows for all the differant setbacks. 1 1/2 long X 6-15 wide and across the same diamiter what ever that is 1 1/2 ft also or so.


Ill bet overtons or bass outfitters has somthing like that?
 

99hawk

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After reading this I'm debating to install the new planer I got from Allison. I'm still learning to drive the boat. Does it improve planing enough to install it? How does it affect the handling at speeds between 40-60 mph?
 

F2008

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What boat?

Yes, it helped me (XB2002) stay on plane at a slightly lower speed, it improved my hole shot a little, and all but eliminated the wash at shut down which is what I was looking for.

I haven't noticed any adverse handling between 40 & 60, just a nice solid feel.

I'll only do top speed runs when there's just a ripple or less so I can't say if mine clips the water or if it affects the handling in rough or choppy water running over 80, (if it does at all).
 

props4u2

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If the boat would have been designed for the average hp most people put on it, then very few people would have had to modify it. It's just unreal to me that YEARS after these boats were first produced, the bugs on things like this are still having to be figured out and adjusted by the end user.

Bob,
The reason Darris made the skid planer a seperate part from the hull is so it would have an air gap/vent. The way he explained it to me when I saw the first one was to think of your shoe stuck in the mud, the venting action of the planer breaks the suction. It would have been impossible to incorparate that into the mold.
As someone more or less stated, most of Darris's testing was with a 200 xs which was the engine he perfered everyone to use for maximum fuel economy and still run with or faster than 99% of the big boats with 250's. I believe the fastest he ever tested was with an 225 X that we played with at the plant for a few days which ran in the 86-87 mph area as I recall, the planer didn't have any ill effects at those speeds.
As a matter of fact, Darris had never even ridden in a 3.0L powered XB-21 until we did the BasSport Pro testing with Tiger in Fl.
Believe it or not the 200 xs had a better hole shot with less bow lift than any of the 3.0L engines that are running 1.62:1 gear ratio's.

Lee
 

props4u2

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On another note, I was the first one to run a skid planer on an SS-2000 drag racing. I made the brackets to attach it to the jack plate as per Darris's instructions since he wasn't offering the brackets at the time. The way it mounted I had to vee the plate at the rear for the engine to tuck in completely. At approx. 100 mph it would drive the bow over and start porpoising, I ended up cutting 3" off the rear to cure the problem and ran it for several years in the 104-106 range in the 1/4 mile. Guess what I'm saying is that the faster you go the more set up time it takes.


Lee
 
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